Voices defining tomorrow

Every few years, a new wave of designers comes through and changes the way everyone else works. Right now, a lot of that energy is coming out of London. These are the names worth knowing before they're everywhere.

Chopova Lowena

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena are famous for their pleated carabiner skirts, made from deadstock and vintage fabric and inspired by Bulgarian folk dress. Their clothes are joyful, a bit punk and instantly recognisable. A rare label that's fun and responsible at the same time.

Paolo Carzana

The Welsh designer hand-dyes his fabrics with plants and builds collections that feel almost like poetry. His shows are some of the most emotional on the London schedule. Not the easiest clothes to wear, but among the most beautiful to look at.

Connor Ives

An American in London who makes glamorous, slightly retro eveningwear, often from deadstock and vintage. His slinky dresses have been worn by plenty of famous names, and his tongue-in-cheek shows are a reminder that fashion is allowed to be fun.

S.S. Daley

Steven Stokey-Daley rethinks classic British menswear, with nods to public school uniforms and country houses, and turns it into something softer and more playful. He won the LVMH Prize in 2022, and plenty of women shop the collections too.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dark, romantic and dramatic. Findikoglu's corsetry and gothic tailoring have become red carpet favourites. Her work is about power and femininity, and it never asks permission.

Where to find them

Emerging labels can be hard to track down. Browns has a long history of backing young designers early, and Farfetch connects you to independent boutiques around the world. Many of these designers also sell directly from their own websites, which means more of your money goes to them.

Why it's worth paying attention

Today's emerging designer is tomorrow's creative director at a big house. Several of the names now running Paris labels started in small London studios just like these. Following them now is the best way to understand where fashion is heading next.

Our edit below picks out pieces from the designers on this list, plus a few high street nods to their style.

Saul Nash

The London designer and choreographer makes sportswear that moves the way a dancer does. Gussets, clever zips and fabrics that stretch in exactly the right places. He won the International Woolmark Prize in 2022, and his tracksuits are some of the most considered on the market.

Feben

Swedish-Ethiopian designer Feben Vemmenby shows in London and makes clothes full of colour, print and joy. Her pieces are cut to celebrate bodies of every shape, and the energy at her shows is hard to match. Look out for the printed silk dresses and matching two-piece sets.

Aaron Esh

Esh makes slim, slightly louche tailoring with a sixties feel. Long coats, narrow trousers, soft shirts. Menswear on paper, but the shapes look just as good on women, and his collections have quickly become a favourite with stylists.

How to support new designers

Buying a whole look isn't the only way to back an emerging label. Many sell smaller pieces, like T-shirts, scarves, jewellery or bags, at a far more reachable price. Following them, sharing their work and turning up to sample sales all help too. Young brands live and die on word of mouth, so a recommendation to a friend is worth more than you'd think.

What they have in common

Almost all of them care about how things are made. Deadstock fabric, small production runs, local factories and hand finishing come up again and again. They also have a clear point of view, which is the one thing big houses spend millions trying to buy. Remember the names. In five years, several of them will be running the brands you already know.

Where to see them in person

Dover Street Market in Haymarket stocks several of these names, and Selfridges regularly gives new London designers space on the floor. The graduate shows at Central Saint Martins each summer are open to the public and a brilliant way to spot talent early.