City guide: where to eat, stay & unwind

Why Copenhagen, why now

The Danish capital has spent the last decade quietly becoming one of the best-dressed, best-fed cities in Europe. It is compact, flat and built for bikes, so a weekend covers a lot of ground without ever feeling rushed. Flights from London take under two hours, and the airport train drops you in the centre in fifteen minutes. No faff.

Go in late spring or early autumn. The light is long and soft, the terraces are open, and you avoid the July crowds. Winter has its own charm (candles everywhere, very serious coats) but some of the harbour spots close. Pack layers, flat shoes and a waterproof that doesn't look like one. Rain arrives without warning and leaves just as quickly.

Where to stay

Hotel Sanders, tucked behind the Royal Danish Theatre, is the one everyone asks about, and for good reason. It feels like staying in a very stylish friend's townhouse: rattan, brass, deep green velvet and a rooftop greenhouse bar that is lovely at dusk. Rooms are small but beautifully done. Book early.

For something grander, Nimb sits inside Tivoli Gardens, all Moorish arches and fireplaces, with a wine cellar that could keep you busy for a week. On a tighter budget, Hotel SP34 in the Latin Quarter is calm, central and good value, with a free wine hour in the early evening that nobody complains about.

Whichever you pick, stay within walking distance of Nyhavn or the old town. You will want to come back between plans, change shoes and go out again.

Where to eat

Start the day like a local, which means pastry. Juno the Bakery in Østerbro makes the cardamom bun the whole city talks about, and the queue moves faster than it looks. Andersen & Maillard in Nørrebro is the other contender, with excellent coffee to match. Try both. Call it research.

Lunch at Torvehallerne, the glass food market near Nørreport station. Grab tacos at Hija de Sanchez, smørrebrød (open sandwiches piled high with pickled herring, egg and dill) from one of the counters, and a glass of natural wine standing up. It is busy, a bit chaotic and completely worth it.

Dinner is where Copenhagen really shows off. Kødbyens Fiskebar, set in the old white meatpacking district, does seafood simply and brilliantly, with oysters, raw scallops and a lively room. Apollo Bar, in the courtyard of Kunsthal Charlottenborg, is the place for a long, easy supper of seasonal plates before wandering into the gallery. Reserve both ahead, especially on Fridays.

If you want one blowout meal, the city's tasting-menu restaurants are famous for a reason. They are also expensive and booked months out, so plan accordingly. Honestly, the neighbourhood places are where the magic is. You will eat better per pound at a bistro in Vesterbro than almost anywhere in London.

Where to shop

Danish design is the souvenir. HAY House on Østergade is two floors of colourful homeware, glassware and the kind of desk accessories you didn't know you needed. Illum and Magasin du Nord are the grand department stores, good for Scandi labels in one place: think Ganni, Rotate, Baum und Pferdgarten and Samsøe Samsøe.

For something less obvious, head to Jægersborggade in Nørrebro, a short street of ceramics studios, vintage shops and tiny cafés. Wood Wood is worth a stop for streetwear with a design edge. Prices are not cheap. Not a flaw, just Denmark. Budget for it and buy one good thing rather than five forgettable ones.

How to unwind

Copenhageners swim in the harbour year round, and you should try it at least once. Islands Brygge harbour bath is free and right in the city. Brave souls go in October. Afterwards, warm up at La Banchina on Refshaleøen, a tiny waterside café with a wood-fired sauna, a short menu and the best sunset seats in town.

Take a morning out of the city for the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, forty minutes up the coast by train. The building, the sculpture garden and the sea view are as good as the collection, which is saying something. Have lunch on the terrace and don't rush back.

Back in town, hire a bike and simply ride. Follow the harbour from Nyhavn to the Opera House, loop past the colourful Christianshavn canals and end with a drink at sunset. The Danes have a word, hygge, for exactly this feeling. It is overused, but here it is accurate.

The KWEEN verdict

Copenhagen rewards people who slow down. Don't over-schedule. Book your dinners, leave the afternoons loose and let the city show you its best bits. Pack the good knitwear, bring comfortable boots and leave room in your suitcase. You will come home with ceramics. Everyone does.