The ultimate guide to linen

Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world, made from the flax plant, and it's still the best thing to wear when the temperature climbs. It's breathable, it dries fast and it gets softer every time you wash it. It also creases if you so much as look at it. Learn to love that and you'll never look back.

Why linen works

Linen fibres are hollow, so air moves through them and moisture wicks away from your skin. It keeps you cooler than cotton on a sticky day, and far cooler than anything synthetic. Flax also needs less water and fewer pesticides than cotton, which makes it one of the more sustainable natural fibres.

What to look for

Check the label. 100% linen is ideal. A linen and cotton blend creases less and costs less, which is fine. Linen mixed with viscose or polyester loses most of the point. European flax, especially from France, Belgium and Ireland, is generally the best quality. Hold the fabric up to the light. It should look even, not patchy or thin.

The pieces to own

A loose white shirt, wide trousers and a simple dress will cover most of summer. Uniqlo does a brilliant linen shirt for very little. Arket is excellent for trousers. M&S is quietly one of the best places for pure linen at a fair price.

How to wear it

Head-to-toe linen in one colour looks relaxed and expensive. White, oatmeal, olive and navy all work. For a sharper look, pair a linen shirt with tailored trousers or dark jeans. Linen trousers with a fitted vest and flat sandals is the easiest holiday outfit there is.

Washing and care

Wash at 30 or 40 degrees with a gentle detergent. Skip the tumble dryer, which can shrink it and make the creases set hard. Shake it out and hang it while damp, and most of the wrinkles drop out on their own. If you must iron, do it while it's still slightly damp, on a high heat.

Where to spend more

Heavier linens hold their shape better and last for years. Toast makes beautiful, weighty pieces. John Lewis stocks a wide range of brands if you want to compare fabrics in person.

Our edit below is a starting point, not a shopping list. Pick the one or two pieces that suit you and wear them all summer.

Linen for work

Linen can look smart enough for the office if the cut is sharp. A linen blazer in navy or stone over a plain T-shirt and straight trousers is the summer version of a suit, and much cooler on a packed train. Keep the colours dark and the shapes tailored. A crumpled white linen shirt says holiday. A pressed navy one says meeting.

Packing it for holiday

Roll linen rather than folding it, which avoids hard creases across the front. Hang everything in the bathroom while you shower on the first night and the steam will relax most of the wrinkles. A shirt, a pair of trousers and a dress in toning colours will give you a week of outfits in very little space. Add a swimsuit and sandals and you're done.

Common mistakes

Buying it too tight is the big one. Linen has no stretch, so a fitted shirt will pull across the back the moment you reach for something. Size up or choose a relaxed cut. Thin white linen is often see-through, so check it in daylight before you cut the tags off. And don't store it damp, ever. Mildew on linen is very hard to shift.

Linen at home

The same rules apply to bedding. Linen sheets feel slightly rough at first and soften beautifully over a few months of washing. They keep you cool in summer and are surprisingly warm in winter. They're expensive up front, but they last years longer than cheap cotton.

Buy one good piece, wear it all summer and see how it softens. Most people are converted by August, creases and all.