The key shows you need to know

Fashion has rarely seen a season like Spring/Summer 2026. More than a dozen major houses showed collections by brand-new creative directors, all at once. It was a lot to take in. These are the shows that mattered most, and the ideas likely to filter down to the high street over the coming months.

Chanel by Matthieu Blazy

The most anticipated debut of the year. Blazy, who made Bottega Veneta the industry's favourite brand, took the Chanel codes and made them lighter and younger. Tweed felt less stiff, the shirting was sharp and there was a real sense of fun. If you only look up one show, make it this one.

Dior by Jonathan Anderson

After a decade of making Loewe brilliant, Anderson brought his wit to Dior. Expect playful proportions, reworked Bar jackets and the kind of accessories that sell out before they reach the shop floor.

Bottega Veneta by Louise Trotter

Trotter, formerly of Carven and Lacoste, kept the intrecciato weave at the centre and built a calm, grown-up wardrobe around it. Quiet, expensive and very wearable. Exactly what Bottega customers want.

Balenciaga by Pierpaolo Piccioli

A big change in mood. Piccioli, known for romantic colour at Valentino, softened Balenciaga's edge without losing its love of volume. Fewer ironic trainers, more beautiful couture-style shapes.

Loewe by McCollough and Hernandez

Following Anderson was never going to be easy. The Proenza Schouler founders went bright and graphic, with bold colour, clever leather and a real nod to the house's Spanish roots.

The London names

London Fashion Week was smaller but sharper. Simone Rocha, Erdem and Chopova Lowena all delivered collections with real personality. London remains the place to spot the next generation before Paris snaps them up.

What it means for you

Expect softer tailoring, playful accessories and a lot more colour. Zara and Mango will have their take within weeks. If you want the real thing, Net-a-Porter stocks most of these houses.

Our edit below picks out pieces that capture the spirit of each show, at a range of prices.

Jil Sander by Simone Bellotti

Bellotti, who spent years at Bally, took over from Luke and Lucie Meier and kept the house's precision while loosening it slightly. Clean coats, fluid trousers and knits with a clever twist in the seams. The collection for anyone who loves minimalism but wants it to feel less severe.

Celine by Michael Rider

Rider, who worked under Phoebe Philo, brought back a preppy, slightly Parisian ease. Striped shirts, neat scarves, slim trousers and handbags that look like they've been carried for years. It felt like Celine remembering who its customer actually is.

Gucci by Demna

Demna's move from Balenciaga to Gucci was the most talked-about appointment of the year. The debut leaned into Italian glamour with a knowing wink: big sunglasses, sharp suits, faux fur and plenty of attitude. Divisive, as expected. It will take a few seasons to see where it's heading.

The trends that came out of it

Look across all the debuts and a few ideas keep repeating. Tailoring got softer and longer. Colour came back, usually in one strong hit rather than head to toe. Bags were slouchy and logo-free. Shoes were flat, pointed and practical. Expect every one of those on the high street by next spring.

How to keep up without the noise

You don't need to watch every show. Pick two or three houses whose clothes you genuinely like and follow them properly. Vogue Runway shows every look from every collection for free, which makes it easy to spot the pieces that will turn into high street versions. Screenshot the ones that make you stop scrolling, then look back after a fortnight. Whatever you still like is your taste, not the algorithm's.

If you only remember three

Chanel, Dior and Bottega Veneta. They're the shows the rest of the industry will be referencing for the next year, and the ones whose ideas will reach the high street first. Lighter tweed, softer tailoring and craft-heavy accessories are the takeaways.