The It-bag brands our editors are watching

What makes an It bag now

The logo era is over. The bags getting attention this year have a recognisable shape rather than a printed monogram. Soft, slouchy leather, unusual hardware and colours like chocolate, burgundy and butter yellow are everywhere. The best ones are built to last more than a season, which matters when you're spending a month's rent.

Polène

The Parisian label has gone from Instagram secret to London commuter staple in a few short years. Polène makes sculptural leather bags in Spain, at prices that undercut the big houses by thousands. The Numéro Neuf is the one you'll spot on the Northern line. The newer Cyme tote is roomy enough for a laptop.

Savette

Savette is the New York brand fashion insiders quietly love. Minimal shapes, beautiful leather and a signature clasp that does all the talking. The Symmetry Pochette is the cult piece. It's not cheap, but the quality is close to the heritage names at around half the price.

Khaite

Khaite is less a newcomer than a brand that has properly arrived. Its structured bags have the grown-up feel of quiet luxury without the stealth wealth smugness. Expensive, yes. Worth watching on the resale market too, where prices are holding up well.

Toteme

The Swedish label Toteme is better known for coats, but its T-Lock bags are now on every fashion week guest list. Clean, architectural and with just enough hardware to be recognisable. They sit comfortably next to everything in a neutral wardrobe.

Ree Projects

The Danish label Ree Projects makes soft, scrunchy leather bags that look relaxed without looking scruffy. The Helene hobo is the one to know. Scandi minimalism with a bit of slouch, and prices that won't make you wince.

DeMellier

London-based DeMellier has been a royal favourite for years, but the newer shapes feel fresher and younger. The Mini Montreal is the classic. The Vancouver tote is the practical choice. Prices are fair for the leather quality, and the customer service is excellent.

Alaïa

Alaïa is the big house on this list, because its Le Teckel bag has become the one to beat. Long, slim and tucked under the arm like a baguette's more serious sister. Expect waiting lists at Selfridges and a lot of people pretending they got one by chance.

The high street versions

Every bag on this list has inspired dozens of lookalikes. Mango and Zara are quick to spot a shape that's taking off. They're fine for testing a trend. Look for real leather where you can, check the stitching and avoid anything with a strong plastic smell. That smell tends to mean the coating will crack within a year.

Buying smart

A designer bag only makes sense if you'll carry it for years. Before you buy, check the resale value on Vestiaire Collective or Vinted. Bags that hold their price tend to be the ones people still want in five years. Pick a neutral colour if this is your one big purchase. Save the butter yellow for the second.

Buying preloved is the other route. Many of these brands turn up barely used at a third off retail, and the shape you want might already be sitting in someone else's wardrobe.

Looking after it

Leather needs a little attention. Store bags stuffed with tissue in their dust bags, away from radiators and sunlight. Wipe off rain as soon as you get in. Condition the leather a couple of times a year with a proper cream, testing on the base first. Never hang a heavy bag by its handles for months. They stretch, and once they've gone there's no getting them back. Our edit below has new and secondhand options at every budget.

Which one to choose

For a first good bag, Polène or DeMellier give you the most for the money. If you want something people in the know will recognise, go for Savette or Khaite. Toteme is the one for minimalists, and Alaïa is the splurge. Pick the colour you wear most, not the one that looks best on the website.