The fragrances everyone is wearing this winter

Why your summer scent disappears in December

Fragrance needs warmth to lift off the skin. In the cold, citrus and sheer florals evaporate quickly and barely register, which is why your favourite August spritz feels like nothing in a wool coat. Heavier notes like vanilla, amber, woods and resin hang around longer and project better through layers. Swap your bottle when you swap your wardrobe.

That doesn't mean you need to smell like a cathedral. The best winter scents this year are cosy rather than heavy, and most sit closer to the skin than the big perfumes of a decade ago. Here is how the season breaks down.

The woody ones

Maison Margiela Replica By the Fireplace is still the one people stop you to ask about. Chestnut, clove and a little smoke, like a pub with a log fire, minus the spilt bitter. Le Labo Santal 33 is everywhere, so much so that some fragrance fans now avoid it on principle. Try Le Labo Another 13 instead if you want something less recognisable. Both are expensive, so buy the travel size first.

The gourmands

Sweet, edible scents have taken over, and the good ones are less sugary than you'd fear. Kayali Vanilla 28 is warm, slightly boozy and lasts all day. YSL Libre is the grown-up option, with lavender cutting through the vanilla. On a budget, Sol de Janeiro body mists give you the same mood for a fraction of the price. They fade faster, so keep one in your bag.

The skin scents

For people who hate perfume, or work in open-plan offices. Glossier You and Juliette Has a Gun Not a Perfume both smell like your skin on a very good day. Nobody across the room will notice. The person you hug definitely will.

The dark florals

Florals in winter work when they are moody. Jo Malone Velvet Rose and Oud is rich without being cloying, and it layers well with their simpler colognes. Byredo Rose of No Man's Land is pinker and peppery, good for anyone who thinks rose smells like their nan. It doesn't, when it's done like this.

The high street finds

Zara fragrances are cheap, surprisingly good and quietly inspired by the designer bottles above. They don't last as long, but at that price you can reapply without guilt. Boots is worth a browse too, especially around Christmas when the gift sets come out and the value is genuinely better than buying bottles on their own.

How to wear it so it lasts

Spray onto moisturised skin. Fragrance clings to hydrated skin and slips off dry skin, so an unscented body lotion first makes a real difference. Go for pulse points, the back of the neck and the inside of your elbows. Don't rub your wrists together, it breaks down the top notes. A light mist on a scarf lasts for days, though test on the label first because some oils can mark silk.

Layering is the trick of the season. A simple vanilla or musk underneath and something woody on top gives you a scent nobody else will have. Start with two, not five, and give the combination a full day before you decide whether it works.

Where to try before you buy

Never buy a full bottle off a paper strip. Wear it on your skin for a whole day first. Liberty and Selfridges have the widest niche ranges and will happily give you samples. The Perfume Shop often has the best prices on the big names. Our edit below has something for every budget.

Giving perfume as a present

Buying scent for someone else is a gamble, so lower the stakes. Look at what they already wear and pick something in the same family: woody for woody, sweet for sweet. Discovery sets are the safest bet, with five or six small vials so they can find a favourite and buy the full bottle later. Boots and Liberty both carry good ones in the run-up to Christmas. Keep the receipt either way.